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LIFE ON BASE SCIENCE

Manip Emperor

It’s the last activity. The one everyone wants to do. Outgoing winterers (myself included) have absolute priority. But between weather watches (my job), bad weather and birders’ rest days… I couldn’t go before the penultimate day of operation.

So I went on Nunatak on December 2, with a group of neophytes: Lise, Narcisse (new baker) and Alex (helicopter pilot) and experts: Doumé (transponder specialist), Léo (country birder), Natacha and Amandine (new winter birder) for the professionals. We set off with two pulkas of equipment (everything we needed for the parks was already on site). The weather was magnificent.

Penguins all over the place

The Emperor penguin chicks are big now. I’ve watched them hatch, grow and be attacked by skuas and giant petrels. But it’s been a good two months since I’ve been to Nunatak. The colony has spread out a lot. The chicks measure 80cm and weigh some 15kg. They gather in nurseries and are looked after by the few remaining adults when the others have already gone out to sea to feed.

Park installation

Four lightweight barriers are used to park the chicks without the adults. A wooden park is placed for catches. Two processing lines are set up.

The park with the little tablet.

An ornithologist enters the park and captures a chick. He places it on the shelf and grabs its beak. On the other side of the fence, we (the neophytes) put a sock over the chick’s head, covering its eyes but not its beak. The birder places the chick with its back to us. We pick it up by putting our arms under its fins and lift it up. When we’re lucky, it struggles until its legs are in the air. Otherwise, when we’re unlucky, it struggles all the time.

Léo catches a chick in the park

As the beaks and claws of penguins are free to injure us, we wear our orange jackets (which are very sturdy), work gloves (which are annoying to remove) and our mask to protect our eyes.

Penguin fins are used to propel them through the water when swimming and hunting. They are very thin, flat and strong. We hold the chicks under their wings to prevent them from dislocating their shoulders while struggling. The corollary is that they flap their fins as they struggle and hit our forearms. It’s like being hit by a wooden instrument. A pleasure …

We have two workflows

Once you’ve got a penguin in your arms (and it’s quiet), it’s cute, soft and doesn’t smell like Adélie penguins. We take them to a team of ornithologists. Léo (or Doumé) takes the penguin by the torso, while we hold it by the feet. The chick flips onto its belly and Léo gets on top. He removes the down between the tail and one leg. He takes the transponder reading to check that the bird has not yet been transponded. He disinfects and uses a kind of gun to inject a chip under the animal’s skin (like seals). The penguin feels nothing at this point and doesn’t move at all. Meanwhile, Amandine (or Natacha) measures the bird’s beak with a caliper.

Belly penguin, transponding and beak measurement

We take the chick back onto our laps. Amandine measures its wings, while Léo plucks a few feathers from its torso and feels the penguin’s belly to see if its stomach is full. Léo then holds the right wing while Amandine disinfects and takes a blood sample. Léo puts the chick in a hood and carries it to a gallows where the animal is weighed. The bird is painted on the belly and wingtips with green paint. Then it’s set free. Meanwhile, Amandine has disinfected all the utensils and prepared the transponder.

One of us (neophytes) writes in a notebook the time, measurements (beak, wings, weight), transponder numbers, blood and/or feather samples, moult stage and whether the chick has food in its stomach. Another rests, making sure that the chicks in the park don’t run away.

We made two pens. One contained sweet little chicks. The other contained teenagers who were ready to go to sea and wanted to do battle. We took care of 33 chicks in one afternoon. I can see why birders get tired. I’ve got bruises on my arms myself. As always with Biomar Tourism, DDU’s travel agency run by the ornithologists in the Biomar building at Dumont d’Urville, we went as far away from the base as we could (1 km) and had cake and hot chocolate for 4 o’clock.

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LIFE ON BASE Travel

Vlog

From my journey to Antarctica’s winter

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Non classé

Vlog

Vlog from my journey to Antarctica’s winter

Categories
LIFE ON BASE

My Production

Antarctica is a place to live and work.

The watch

DDU is a weather observation and forecasting station. We produce two weather forecasts a da y: a meteogram in the morning and a bulletin in the evening. I describe the watch day in a podcast (in French).

The watch is a lot of time, but not a lot of production. The real job is to adapt to the station needs.

Sea state

Basically, weather forecasting isn’t at all like in mainland France: we write it on the spot for the people we see every day.

The first request I had was to modify the swell forecast… I was already monitoring sea ice. To do this, I was monitoring the swell, which has the bad taste of breaking up the pack ice by satellite image.

Extraction d’images satellite de la base pour le suivi de la banquise

But in summer, when there’s no more ice, Célestin, who drives a small boat, wanted me to provide him with wave heights in Pointe Géodésie. I adapted to Célestin’s observations an empirical formula for wave height like this one:

H_f=\frac{\lambda_5 u^2}{g}
  • où, H_f – height of fully formed waves
  • \lambda_5 – dimensionless coefficient approximately equal to 0.27
  • u – wind speed
  • g – acceleration of gravity.

On this occasion, I was able to take a boat tour.

Animation and Participatory Weather

Weather is a subject that interests people. So it’s fun to popularize. That’s what I did on Jeudi de la connaissance. I had dozens of people launch the radiosonde balloon, but I also had them write forecast bulletins and state the radio bulletin.

To have more interaction with users and to retrieve observation information, I coded a participatory meteorology tool (php and javascript) during the 2023-2024 summer campaign. All winterers can now fill in an observation form on the base’s intranet (accessible on cell phones). They can attach a photo, a comment or a question. Observations and photos are sent by e-mail from the DDU weather station.

Data supply

There isn’t a single activity at the base that isn’t weather-sensitive. That’s why weather data is so important.

At DDU, we collect data on temperature, humidity, wind, radiation and sensitive weather (visibility, precipitation) in a local database. Some of this data is then sent to meteorological databases in mainland France.

We didn’t have a simple tool for visualizing this data on site. A search of the station’s archives revealed that this was a handicap that successive agents had tried to resolve by reinventing the wheel with each generation.

I used Python scripts from previous missions, adapted and formatted in visualization software with FreeSimpleGUI. First the minute data, then the hourly data. This is VisuDDU.

Similarly, climate data have been standard on DDU for 3 years. There is climatology data (1991-2020 averages). Each month’s climatology comparisons. Then the production of graphs for monthly climatology reports and comparisons between years over a given period. This is ClimDDU.

Automatic file filling

At the station, we monitor certain indicators on a daily basis. At the start of my mission, we entered daily fields such as minimum and maximum temperatures, swell periods and amplitude, maximum wind speed, etc. by hand in different files. Similarly, we entered radiosonde values in a dedicated file. In all, we entered around fifty values by hand, passing these figures from one computer (with the databases) to another (with the freeoffice sheets). Stupid!

I wrote Python programs to fill in these fields from messages sent automatically to the libreoffice files.

I have put these codes on Météo France’s GitLab, so that we don’t lose them.

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LIFE ON BASE

First aid, firefighters and medic

There’s a doctor at DDU. But that’s not enough.

In good health

We’re in good shape to go to Antarctica. We’ve passed physical and psychological tests. In theory, there are no allergies on the base. But as winterers live for a year in living conditions quite different from those in metropolitan France, we need to be monitored. And accidents can happen.

Hospital and Medics

During my wintering, there were accidents, stupid injuries (because there’s no smart way to hurt yourself), wear and tear and deficiencies. Sophie (the doctor) used to classify the winterers as “those with back pain and those with knee pain”. I had a bad back.

Yes, there’s a hospital in DDU. A rudimentary operating bloc, a dental surgery, an examination room, a pharmacy and an office in building 42. The doctor used to be a public hospital emergency doctor. She had received additional training in first aid, dentistry and so on. But she can’t do everything on her own.

First of all, she’s not isolated from metropolitan France. If in doubt, she can ask her TAAF colleagues for advice. And then there’s tele-medicin… That’s a running gag : every year, connection tests fail. In any case, you can’t operate alone.

That’s why Sophie has trained overwinterers to assist her in the surgery bloc. These are the “medics”. But we also need people with first aid training to extract and transport potentially injured people to hospital, and firefighters to extract people from potential burning buildings.

First aid

I used to be a first aid worker. Up until now, I’d had SST (Sauveteur, Secouriste du Travail) training and work-at-height training to keep myself safe at altitude. But “rescue” is another level of complexity.

Extraction at Mont Rose: Natacha (ornithologist) and I extracting a summer worker (in the litter) following Sophie’s (doctor) and Florent’s (lidarist) instructions.

We’ve had a lot of training in harnessing to extract people without tiring ourselves out (too much), and in the A B C D E method for quickly drawing up a general assessment of the situation (to be passed on to the doctor) and identifying the problem areas to be treated as a priority.

Firefighters

The historic Port Martin base burned down in 1952. The survivors moved to DDU. Fire is a major concern at Dumont d’Urville. On the base, buildings are spaced far apart to prevent fire spreading, whereas other countries have built compact bases to avoid energy loss (e.g. Neumayer).

We’re all trained to handle a fire extinguisher, and six people are trained to enter a burning building and extract someone. I was one of the people who helped them get dressed.

Lise in her fireman’s outfit (without the boots).

Throughout the winter, I took part in drills and training courses. Once a fortnight, we had rescue training with Sophie, and once a month we had a fire drill with Ugo. It was a big commitment for some of us. We always need a medic and firefighters on base. This meant that the firefighters on call couldn’t leave the base to go out and do manip or go for a walk as they pleased.

Personally, I really enjoyed the training and exercises. They’re always useful.

Categories
LIFE ON BASE

Solidarity at DDU

All the same

On the base, we share the same experiences. The climate comes to mind, of course. But let’s talk about other things.

Entrance hall to 42 (dormitory): hard to find your things

First of all, we all look alike because we share the same equipment. The endowment is the equipment provided by the IPEV for the year. Our equipment is our own. It’s specific to each job, and the clothes are our size (more or less) but on the whole we share the same items. So we have trouble finding our own clothes. This gives us the opportunity to complain together about the shortcomings of our equipment: it’s dull and ill-fitting for the women, the gloves don’t protect us from the cold, they don’t fit properly, etc.

We also share certain tasks, which are done by everyone. This is the case with “service base” (basic service). Service base is a day given to the community. It’s done in pairs. You don’t choose your partner or the day, and it’s mandatory. You clean part of the communal areas, the showers and toilets. We empty the bins. We set the table, serve the food and wash the dishes. It’s a lot easier to do the service base in winter when there are 24 people than in summer when there are 80. It’s a little humiliating. So it’s very important that everyone goes through it.

Having the same experiences makes it easier to understand.

Yet all specific

At Dumont D’Urville (DDU), there’s one plumber, one electrician, one carpenter, etc… We’re not free to choose the people we work with. I think that when you need someone, you’re more polite to them. And we’re all interdependent. So we’re all polite to each other.

In any case, people are competent in their field because they are selected to be so. And they’re helpful, so maybe we’re selected to be too. I don’t know if it’s the same every year, but this year the group is quite friendly.

Helping others

However competence is not always enough. It often takes more than one person to get the job done, or simply because it’s less of a hassle.

Manip’Vivre

At DDU, the buildings are all far apart. This is particularly true of the food storage sheds and the kitchens. As a result, once a week, foodstuffs are transported in a chain from two different sheds (the -20°C and the +4°C) to the kitchen. This is called manip’vivre. Anyone who wants to can take part in the chain, otherwise the cook and baker would have to carry the food themselves: impossible.

What’s more, the kitchen is always happy to get a hand. From peeling onions to making a snack, or even cooking a whole meal. The kitchen is open. It’s good for me, who loves to cook, and for them, who work a bit less.

Crêpes party with Mélanie

It’s the same with birdwatchers. They need people to help them and this allows us to see wild animals up close. It’s a chance to go for a walk. But sometimes the question changes direction. The people who come to Antarctica don’t come by chance. They love their job. It’s their passion. But the sheer volume of work is too much. This is where we reach the limit of mutual aid. We don’t want our colleagues and friends to find themselves in difficulty in their work. One person’s failure affects the whole group. So everyone pitches in. But shouldn’t this work, that we do on a voluntary basis, be made by professionals ?

Assistance and training

Sophie, the doctor, won’t be able to save someone who has an accident at DDU on her own. For an hour a week, she trains us and puts together a small medical team and a small first aid team, of which I am one.

First aid exercise at Mont Rose mountain.

And it’s not the only one training people. There is of course an interest in the work of the professionals around us. So some people train in mechanical engineering, for example. Everyone invites everyone to come and see their work. What’s more, we, weather forecasters, invite others to launch our weather balloons (just for fun) and I’ve started weather forecast trainings (for those interested).

Community life

Leisure activities are also often collective. With the onset of winter, the living room has been transformed and games (billiards, table tennis, table soccer) have invaded the space. We watch TV series together. We play board games.

Finally, what would French community life be without a bar: the ‘White Hell’ is now open every day. You have to pay for the alcohol, which is subject to quotas (which are apparently too strict). There are endless discussions about how best to manage the alcohol. But I’m not concerned: I have to be the only one who doesn’t drink alcohol.

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Travel

Life on the Astrolabe

The Astrolabe is a military ship, demilitarized for this mission between Hobart and Dumont d’Urville. She is 72 m long and has 8 decks. She’s a very small icebreaker. There are around sixty of us on board, including around twenty sailors.

At first, the Astrolabe was a real metal labyrinth for me. I had a lot of trouble finding my way around, and the explanations given by the crew, who are very friendly and attentive, weren’t always very clear. But you learn, you get used to it.

My room

My room is large. I share it with 3 other women. Two of them are scientists who work aboard the boat day and night. They get up every 8 hours to launch the temperature probes into the sea (I’ll tell you about that too). I don’t want to wake them up, so I leave early with all my gear for the day and head for either the IPEV (French Polar Institut) meeting room on the officer’s deck, or the passenger lounge on the middle deck.

Cantine

There are two services in the canteen: babords and tribords. There’s a laundry room and a library for those who don’t get seasick.

The gastrolabe

The Astrolabe is very comfortable. However, as it has a flat bottom to enable it to climb onto the ice and break it up, in very rough seas like the Antarctic Ocean, the boat is very listless, hence its nickname of “gastrolabe (puke + Astrolabe)”. Thanks to the sailors for leaving the bunks at hold level: you’d rather be at the base of a metronome than at the tip of its needle. We were immediately warned, and provided with a treatment for seasickness. It’s a patch you stick to the back of your ear, and its effects last for 3 days. There are a few side-effects: eyesight can become blurred, and the mouth and sinuses can dry out. But as someone who’s sensitive to motion sickness, I managed very well with the patch and was able to enjoy the crossing. That’s not the case for everyone. I know how lucky I am.

Passagers

A detour to Macquarie

This year, we made a detour to Macquarie Island, to drop off some Australian scientists.

The maneuver was carried out in the early hours of the morning, and very quickly. This Australian island is renowned for its biodiversity. I was able to see dolphins (one day before), king penguins and shearwaters swimming in packs, an orca from afar, elephant seals fighting on the beach, cape checkers and giant petrels. I wish I had the lens to take better photos.

Manchots et Gorfous de Macquarie

The pack

Today, December 10, I saw my first icebergs, but still no pack.

First, small ice cubes appeared, and now there are more and more of them. The smallest look like plastic bags floating on the surface of the water.

Then, in the distance, an iceberg and chunks of pack ice.

Then nothing. The pack ice broke up the day we arrived. We never saw the pack. That’ll have to wait until winter.

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BEFORE DEPARTURE Non classé

Wintering Seminar

Some time before my departure, I had the opportunity to spend a week in Plouzané on the premises of the French Polar Institute (IPEV), the organisation that manages the logistics for my mission to Dumont d’Urville (DDU).

There I met the future overwinterers from the Antarctic bases (DDU and Dome C at Concordia) and the Sub-Antarctic (Crozet, Amsterdam and Kerguelen). The IPEV institut offered us a mix of activities and presentations, which gave the future overwinterers, including myself, the chance to ask the last questions they had.

Most of them are civic service volunteers (VSC). Many of them are the versatile little hands of scientific work on the bases. Like astronauts, they collect data and carry out experiments in hostile environments. They are paid very little for their skills. Then there are the technical staff without whom the base cannot function: the cook, the baker, the heating engineers, the carpenter, the mechanics, the toolmakers, etc., the station manager and the doctor. And then there are us, the 3 Météo-France employees. In total, there will be 24 overwinterers, including 7 female this year for the 74th mission to Dumont d’Urville.

Finally, this meeting was an opportunity to meet the staff who help with the administration and logistics of our missions.

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NOT TRANSLATED YET

Tests médicaux- psychologiques (francais)

On est d’abord sélectionné sur ses compétences. Mais quand on est engagé sur un poste à DDU, c’est sous réserve de passer les examens médicaux-psychologiques. Bon ! cette année, je n’avais pas trop de doute : j’ai déjà passé tous les tests l’année dernière quand j’étais suppléante.

D’abord, il y a la condition physique. Moi, je suis relativement jeune, donc j’ai échappé à certains exercices ; en particuliers, je n’ai pas fait de tests d’effort. Cette année comme l’année dernière, j’ai répondu à un questionnaire proche de celui de la médecine du travail. On a observé mon poids, ma taille. On m’a fait un examen de vue, une prise de sang, d’urine et un électrocardiogramme. J’ai fais une radio du thorax et de la mâchoire. J’ai rencontré le médecin du CMI. Par ailleurs, je suis aussi allée voir une dentiste, une gynécologue et un opticien pour des tests complémentaires obligatoires. Bref, c’est très long.

La grosse angoisse des aspirants hivernants, ce sont les tests psychologiques. On ne sait jamais pourquoi on est recalé. Donc on ne sait pas non plus sur quoi on est évalué. J’ai moi-même été prise comme suppléante l’année dernière, parce que la personne avant moi dans la liste avait été recalée… personne qui m’a l’air parfaitement saine d’esprit. Tout cela m’avait l’air très aléatoire. C’est donc la boule au ventre que je me suis rendue l’année dernière au service médical des TAAF pour remplir deux questionnaires psychologiques, et pour passer un entretien avec une psychologue. C’est très, très long. Mais c’est une évaluation valable 5 ans. Je suis heureuse d’être officiellement apte à partir en Terre Adélie.

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NOT TRANSLATED YET

Formations météo (français)

Actuellement, je suis chercheuse au CNRM. Je travaille à compiler des informations autour des basses couches de l’atmosphère et à compiler du code informatique sur un super calculateur. Ce n’est pas ce que je ferai à DDU.

Mon métier sur la base, j’en parlerai en détail plus tard. Mais, maintenant, il me faut une bonne piqûre de rappel sur les notions de base et de bonnes notions de sécurité.

Depuis l’année dernière déjà, je suis habilitée à travailler en hauteur, sensibilisée au risque électrique et je suis sauveteuse secouriste du travail. Il y a un mois, j’ai révisé mes bases de prévision du temps et de météorologie polaire. Cette semaine, on m’a présenté les outils permettant l’acquisition et l’archivage des données météorologiques, ainsi que la génération de données climatologiques. Mais surtout, j’ai pratiqué le lancer de radiosondage.

Choisir les sondes et les ballons. Les gonfler à l’hélium. Calibrer la sonde. Fixer les éléments. Lancer le ballon. Et analyser les données. Ce sera en partie mon travail quotidien.